I first visited Nepal in December, 1994. What I remember most are the smells of incense, wood smoke, dirt, and cow dung in both Kathmandu and Pokhara, the two main cities of Nepal, as well as the image of Mount Fishtail (Machhapuchchhre in Nepali) appearing and disappearing behind clouds in the moonlight as I stood in front of a café in Pokhara one night, staring up at the holy mountain, which stood out from all the Anapurna range.
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